Thursday, 4 December 2014

Padding and Shaping Practicals

During the practical sessions we looked at padding.
Padding is a very good technique because it creates instant volume and shape to any hair style. 
Firstly start by sectioning the piece of hair you want to apply the padding to and start to make a plait as tight to the scalp as you can. Once done secure with kirby grips. Then check your padding/rat is the right size for the section (adjust accordingly). Then attach to the plait with strong pins. Once attached sort out the front section to cover the padding.
I'm very happy with how my first go with padding went and as I have progressed more and tried it more it gets very easy to place in the hair. 

FINAL LOOK IN PRACTICAL:


As I was not happy with my first placement of my padding, I decided to try it again at home. This time i made my own padding and made sure it was the right size.

Padding placed and gripped into plait. 
side view 
finished padding.
I am really happy how my padding came out this time around. I think it looks more professional and it sits nicely on the head compared to before. I think the technique of padding is very helpful and I think it will help me create the height I want in my final look and design. 

Curls, Crimp and Frizz Practicals

During these couple of practicals with Helen and Lottie, we looked at curls, crimping and frizzing. These three techniques are very Elizabethan I think I want to try and feature all three in my final look.

In this practical we looked at crimping and curling. We started with a demonstration on what we had to do and it was crimp one side of the hair and curl the other side, allowing it to cool and set. After watching the demonstration we went off and practiced on our Kate heads as the majority of the group needed to practice before working on real human hair. Here is a few images I took during the class and during my free time practicing. 

First techniques was crimping and curling:

LOTTIE'S DEMO

CRIMPING AWAY!!

CRIMP SETTING

CURL SETTING

FINAL LOOK

Frizzing:
HELEN'S DEMO
CREATING THE ZIG ZAG SHAPE AROUND THE PIN!
BRUSHED OUT FRIZZ!

 I then went to try it out at home by myself, to practice and get my frizzing skills up to scratch and because I really love the finish of frizzing!

Placing the section of hair in the pin.

After creating the 'zigzag' shape. Make a figure of 8 motion around the pin.

After setting the 'zigzag' shape with the straighteners.

After allowing it to set and then taking it out you
create the 'zigzag' shape.

After brushing out the frizz. 





Elizabethan Hair Styles

During the Elizabethan times, the styles changed. For the first time in a long time, woman were not covering their hair on religious reasons. They were wearing it uncovered and very big and the culture changed from being based largely on religion but to art, science and politics.

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core.windows.net/userimag
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They used items such as padding and wires to create shapes in the hair such as a heart shapes. During this time, something simple that we take for granted now a days was invented, the first metal hair pin (1545). This made it a lot easier to create different shapes and hold them in place whilst setting was taking place.


Taken from the book 'Fashions in hair, the first five
thousand years'. 



















Looking at these two images you can see that the Elizabethans were very creative with their hairstyles. They liked to have the finished hairstyle very neat, where as the contemporary Elizabethan images I have seen, have had a 'messy' look about them. The two main shapes the Elizabethans liked were the round and heart shapes.


Hair styles and accessories in Elizabethan Portraiture

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/art-news/9862702/Rare-
portrait-of-Elizabeth-I-owned-by-North-Carolina-Garden-Club-shown-in-Washington.html
In this Elizabethan Portrait, she has her hair pulled back away from the face with a very high forehead. I believe this hair is a wig so it has been styled before application to the head. It is a very light red colour which was very fashionable  It has been fashioned with pearls. Theses seem to be very popular in the Elizabethan times as they can be seen present on most upper class women. She has the 'pearl drops' matching her necklace and her earrings too. She also has a something that resembles a necklace in her hair. This is encrusted with very expensive jewels and gems and it sits high on her head. There is gold and red colours, which look very royal and show her importance.


http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/rainbowlarger.jpg













In this portrait the sitter has all sorts of hair adornments in her hair. She has red hair which was very popular in the Elizabethan times. The hair features some frizzing techniques which have not been brushed out but left to create a zigzag shape. Her hair line has been plucked far back which showed intelligence. The hair accessories in this portraits are pearls, jewels, some form of hat or fascinator with a crown on top which is covered in pearls and broaches. Once again the colour red is featured in these accessories and so does dark coloured/black gems which I think work well against the colour of the sitters hair.







Elizabeth_I_of_England_Header
http://hoocher.com/Portraits_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England/Elizabeth_I_of_England_Header.jpg









This portrait features a young Elizabeth I, once again featuring the red hair and curls. This features a small hat which I imagine to be velvet. It is adorned with tear shaped jewels and pearls. What really drew me towards to this was the feather and jewel piece on the side of this hat. i like the feature of a feather and the bigger jewels. Once again the red, gold and dark coloured jewels are featured which I believe showed the class of the sitter.










http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/art-news/9862702/Rare-portrait-of-Elizabeth-I-owned-by-North-Carolina-Garden-Club-shown-in-Washington.html
http://www.marileecody.com/eliz1-images.html
http://hoocher.com/Portraits_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England/Portraiture_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England.htm

Practical buns, plaits, hair accessories

Recently we practiced buns and plaits and adding accessories into them.


This was a bun I created, I feel like I got the shape very accurate without using a padding or doughnut hair pieces to help achieve this shape. I started by putting it in a pony tail and back combing it slightly and shaping it around until I was happy with the shape. I then pinned it and sprayed it with an extra hold hairspray. I think this bun I created is a very formal style of bun, something that would have perhaps been used in the Elizabethan times and something I may look into incorporating in my final design.












Here I created a normal French plait and added a metal chain to it. I pinned it in with pins and twisted the chain through the plait. I also tried with ribbon but did not manage to take a picture. The ribbon was a lot easier to move through the hair compared to the chain but I think the chain gives it an edgy look. I feel like I could improve on putting hair accessories into the hair to make it look neater. I think my contemporary look will have some sort of hair adornments featured with in it but at the moment I am unsure. I think I may use a chunky statement necklace and pin it into the hair as I think I want to go with a final design highly influenced by fashion and these type of necklaces are very much in fashion. 





These images are of a hairstyle I designed so I could practice plaits. I made a french plait going from one side of the head to the other, but I took out a section and fish tail braided it first. I then braided that in with the french plait, creating this finished braid. I then curled the rest of the hair and positioned and clipped it to the side. I then back combed it slightly for some extra volume and shape.

Hair in an Elizabethan Society

In Elizabethan society, if part of the court it was important to be fashionable and to be noticed so you were taken seriously. Anything elaborate or extravagant was necessary to achieve success. This didn't just include women, the men took near enough just as much time and effort in their appearance also to be heard and to draw attention to themselves.

http://scarletnat.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11
/red-cheeks-or-rosacea-in-art-history.html
The Elizabethans who were more upper class tended to have bigger hair, this included wigs as well. Queen Elizabeth used to create very extravagant hair styles because she wished to be noticed the most, understandable as she was the ruler of a country and a woman, which meant she did not want to be overshadowed by men as women were not taken as seriously as men. 

If the Elizabethan was upper class and she had darker coloured hair that was red or blonde then they would  normally dye or bleach it as this was the fashion and they could afford it. Queen Elizabeth had over 80 wigs from deep reds to nearly white. 

https://elizabethantimeswiki.wikis
paces.com/Fashion+and+Gender
The lower class Elizabethans had shorter, darker hair as they could not afford to bleach their hair. They would often cover their hair in a Coif. This was because they were working and they couldn't afford hair adornments because they were once again expensive items like gems and pearls. 

Elizabethan Hair styles for men included beards as well, they would often be cut into a point, square or oblong. Their hair started short but as the century progressed the fashions changed and they would often been seen with long locks.



http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm

Sunday, 30 November 2014

Elizabethan Contemporary Hairstyles / Inspiration for my Design

http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-l
arge/elizabethan-girl-thomas-bedson.jpg
I really like this image because I have decided that I want to create a fashion themed final design with a slight Gothic edge. The colour of the hair in the image is a red, which in the 16th century was classed as fashionable, but not exactly the red that the Elizabethans would have had. The Elizabethans would have one for a more natural red/ginger colour but this is modern because the red is not a natural red but a dyed deep red almost purple toned colour that is fashionable today.  I like the use of the netting at the front because it looks like a caul which would normally be positioned at the back of the head in the 16th century and fashioned with pearls. But continuing with a modern theme it is turned to the front of the head. The shape of this hair also fascinated me as well because it is curled and frizzed as well as backcombed. It has the center parting and there is two padded sections just like a a heart shaped hairstyle often worn in the Elizabethan times. 


https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/9a/66/7d/9a667dcd
ebc5b1964c0fbea574359701.jpg



This image caught my eye because of the length, colour and crimp technique used. If you look closely they have also included a plaits and twists down the right side of the head.  This certainly interested me again because of the Gothic feel coming from it. This hair style looks like it was achieved with hair pieces, crimping, frizzing and possibly padding. The frizzing as been left and brushed out to create height and texture and a 'zigzag' shape. The colour of this hair is a dirty blonde colour which has different shades of blonde running through it, this seems very Elizabethan because they used to bleach their hair to get it lighter. I like the hair piece added to this style because it seems darker and different to what the Elizabethans would have used like jewels and gems, they still used feathers but in a different way to the stylist has for this shoot. 
http://primped.ninemsn.com.au/hair/rafw-dhinis
-massively-backcombed-indian-empress
This image got my attention because I really want to try a big extravagant hair style for my final design. The Elizabethans had bigger hair the more upper class 
they were and I think as I want to explore a royal theme to my design and creating the biggest hair possible will be fun to try and achieve. I believe this style was created with the whole head being crimped leaving a section at the front all the way around the head. The crimped section is then styled with some sort of padding and the front section is back combed and the smoothed over the top. I think this look, also has a Gothic feel about it, like a Halloween/supernatural look. The colour is also good because Elizabethans liked lighter locks.